Monday, January 26, 2015

<--altered

Céline SS15 silk necklaces/belts: limoges porcelain body parts and a gold brass bell | Erwin Blumenfeld, The Eye of Male Mortality, 1947
 
 
For S/S 2015, Phoebe Philo continues to inject the decorative and surreal to maximize the minimalism at Céline.  The accessories create tension and fragility to pragmatic silhouettes and restrained shapes. 

Rendered in stark white porcelain, Philo’s art objects hark back to neoclassic Hellenic statues. Here, however, the classical form is shattered. It’s broken and displaced--strung on twisted silk to hang from the neck and hug the waist. A reinterpretation of the "ideal" beauty turns into a questioning, convulsive one. Alteration occurs, and narrative follows.  

 
Stills from Jean Cocteau's 1930 film The Blood of a Poet

Costume design by Adrian, The Women, 1939 | Claude Cahun, Untitled (Surrealist hands), 1939 

The concept looks to the surrealist fascination with body dislocation as transformation. Think prefix “dis.” Distortion. Disorder. Disruption. Dis Magazine. Philo’s exercise in “dis” is an eternal device to infuse both meaning and mystery to Céline's refined luxury. It’s story-telling to the core and suggests the duality of womanhood: both strength and vulnerability can and will co-exist.

Large bell detail.  

 Bells offer more context to the garments. Historically, on one hand they conjure necessity and purpose as a tool: signaling/time keeping/warning. On another, they reference the mystical, supernatural, and godly, byway of ceremony and ritual. Bells after all are commonly said to possess good luck and ward off evil.  

The bells in the collection seem to be worn like protective talismans, projecting both spirituality and power onto the wearer. 
  Biomorpic and abstract in shape, they recall Jean Arp sculptures and Elsa Peretti jewelry.

Viking bell pendant from Latvia, c. 800 -1,100 AD | Indonesian gold bell pendant, c. 8th–12th century | Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. sterling silver urn pendant, 1970s | Two Elsa Peretti for Halston perfume bottle necklaces, c. 1975  | Jean (Hans) Arp, Déméter, 1964 | Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. gold/lapis lazuli perfume bottle necklace, c. ? 

Wednesday, October 8, 2014

past go


Some 90s activewear inspo from WWD, featuring mystery brands that probably no longer exist...

 1.By Taylor, Aug 1, 1996 | 2. BodyWave, Feb 18, 1997
3. Weekend Exercise, Dec 4, 1997 | 4. Aerodynamic, Aug 28, 1995
5. Confetti, Aug 1, 1996 | 6. San Francisco City Lights, Aug 1, 1995
7. Crunch Gear, Dec 8, 1994 

Sunday, September 21, 2014

greige2

1. Bonnie Cashin pantsuit, leather and wool, 1960

2. Jigsaw FW98 ad, photo by Juergen Teller

3. Zoran cashmere silk sweater, Vous Officer pants, 
Vogue, June 1984, photo by Oliviero Toscani

4. Rex leather belt, L'Officiel 155, 1934

5. Le Trani Episode, Louise Bourgeois, 1971

Thursday, September 11, 2014

greige


1. Dog with Human Head, painted wawa wood, 1999, Stephan Balkenhol

2. Under arm, Norbert Schoerner, The Face, Nov 1996

3. Elsa Triolet necklace, disks imitating mother of pearl, 1930s

Triolet was a Russian born, French writer who for a brief period from 1929-early 1930s, designed jewelry for couturiers to support herself and husband/poet Louis Aragon. She was known for her use of diverse and unusual materials. Most notably she created a porcelain necklace resembling aspirin for the house of Schiaparelli in 1931.

4. Sybilla bag, 1980s 

5. Lauryn Hill in Levis, 1999

Friday, August 8, 2014

over theirs

  "Backpack Hype" feature, The Face, Oct 93

Photographed by Alexi Tan, Styled by Jeannine Umrigar

1-2: Timberland
3. Union
4. Polo Ralph Lauren

Clothing by A.P.C.

Wednesday, July 16, 2014

yung

1. Dutch #40, 2002, Photographed by Matthias Vriens, styled by Timothy Reukauf
2. Spring Break 1982-83 by Keith McManus
3. Blur, 1990
4. Supreme ad, 1996 by David Shadi Perez
5. Gap jeans ad, 1998

still

1. Image from Hugo/Hugo Boss catalogue, SS99, photographed by Liz Collins, Art Directed by Marc Ascoli  
(I will forever be inspired by the catalogues/campaigns Marc created in the 80s-90s for Yohji and Jil Sander.)
2. Elaine Constantine for The Face, 1997
3. Ad by Miles Aldridge for Isabella Rossellini's short-lived cosmetics line "Manifesto," 1999
4. Y's Yohji Yamamoto lookbook, SS01, Max Vadukul, via November Books

Sunday, July 6, 2014

- - - -

 Contrast stitching at the Prada "Men's" SS15 collection reminded me of this 1970s skirt I own. 

Thursday, June 12, 2014

Sunday, June 8, 2014

the march

     
     1. Ruffo jacket + embrace, Vogue Italia, Sept 1997, photo by Peter Lindbergh
     2. Vintage Matsuda Nicole dress coat from eBay
     3. Geoffrey Beene 2pc suit, 1973 via MET collection
     4. Claude Montana shoe, SS00 via firstview
     5. Schiaparelli enamel heart and swords brooch, 1939
     6. Matsuda shirt/dress combo, WWD, Nov 17 1993

     (P.S. I am now live on Twitter!!!)

london/1993

 When I think of street style photography, a name that instantly comes to mind is Shoichi Aoki's. You may have seen his photos of Harujuku teenagers in the cult Japanese magazine he founded called, FRUiTs. Aoki also created another publication in 1985 called, STREET, showcasing street style in London, and during fashion week in Paris and NYC. He was the sole photographer of the magazine until 1997. 80s and 90s back issues are pretty rare, so when scans do appear online I get pretty excited. The images above are from STREET #53, 1993.
 [via erik modesvu]

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

slouch on by


slouch on by

 Margiela shirt
MiH jeans
Adidas superstar 2 sneakers
The Row bag
Beauty & Youth socks
Issey Miyake watch
Carved bone ring from 1stdibs 

after laughter


  Acne Studios sweatshirt
 Miyake PLEATS PLEASE pants
90s DKNY sandals from eBay
Marni bag
Silva/Bradshaw ring
Antique ring from Erie Basin

Sunday, May 18, 2014

u a hot boy


This H&M boys sweatshirt is actually very sexy.

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

breeze


1: Ad from Emporio Armani Magazine #7, 1992 / 2: Now-Then, Viviane Sassen, from Die Son Sien Alles
3. Madame Agnès sun hats, photos by Horst, Vogue, Jan 1935
4. Untitled (Beach Equipment), Paul Outerbridge, c. 1936 / 5. Blond Girl 2, Elad Lassry, 2010
6. Photo by Bruce Weber, 2000 / 7. Photo by Bernard Pesce, Zoom magazine, Summer 1985
9. Taryn Manning in LA, Lauren Greenfield, January 1999, from Girl Culture

Friday, May 2, 2014

hey lover

Testino-lensed spread for Dutch #22, 1999, accompanied w/some very wise captions.

Sunday, April 13, 2014

insert any miguel song here

1. Photo from Surf Story series, Elfie Semotan
2. Beach braids via Poorly Dressed
3. Diptychs are boring…paint me a triptych,  2011, Alistair Frost
4. Catalina men's swim trunks, LIFE, June 6, 1941
5. Perry Ellis 2pc look, Vogue, November 1983
6. René Boivin starfish pin, Harper's Bazaar, 1938

Monday, April 7, 2014

red, hot and blue

Schiaparelli fingerless gloves + Picasso's Blue Boy painting +
Verdura for Paul Flato cigarette case made of diamonds, sapphires and rubies. It was specially made for Cole Porter (a very good friend/customer of Verdura's) who gifted it to wife, Linda for the opening of his musical "Red, Hot and Blue" in 1936. 

Vogue, February 1937, photo by Horst
Cigarette case design sketch by Verdura via jewels du jour