Sunday, April 13, 2014

insert any miguel song here

1. Photo from Surf Story series, Elfie Semotan
2. Beach braids via Poorly Dressed
3. Diptychs are boring…paint me a triptych,  2011, Alistair Frost
4. Catalina men's swim trunks, LIFE, June 6, 1941
5. Perry Ellis 2pc look, Vogue, November 1983
6. René Boivin starfish pin, Harper's Bazaar, 1938

Monday, April 7, 2014

red, hot and blue

Schiaparelli fingerless gloves + Picasso's Blue Boy painting +
Verdura for Paul Flato cigarette case made of diamonds, sapphires and rubies. It was specially made for Cole Porter (a very good friend/customer of Verdura's) who gifted it to wife, Linda for the opening of his musical "Red, Hot and Blue" in 1936. 

Vogue, February 1937, photo by Horst
Cigarette case design sketch by Verdura via jewels du jour

Friday, April 4, 2014

2001 leftovers

Left over contents from my sister's RISD portfolio case:
Drink lid | tarnished pyramid stud earring | black light body glitter | 
photo of a friend | whistle | metallic bangle | Advil | glow sticks 

Thursday, April 3, 2014

ebbnflow


"Mr. Simons has a gift for abstracting ideasfrom music, art
and making the results seem not merely new but also concrete." 

BLESS N°10, Scarfs Unlimited, Nov 1999   /
Christian Dior FW14

Prada briefs, 1999


1. Dutch #23, Sept/Oct 1999, photo by Matthias Vriens
2. i-D, Dec 1999, photo by Collier Schorr (dress is Prada as well)


Saturday, February 8, 2014

backstage 2000-01

 1. DKNY FW00 /  2. Marni FW00 / 3. Antonio Berardi FW00
4. Jill Stuart FW00 / 5. Calvin Klein FW00 / 6. Gucci SS00
7.+8. Marithe & Francois Girbaud SS00 / 9. Pucci SS01
10. Chanel FW01 / 11. Alberta Ferretti FW01 / 12. Vivienne Tam SS01

[via Firstview]

Sunday, February 2, 2014

got by

 Tuesday April 26, 1994, Cris Moor
Thursday June 25, 1994, Cris Moor
Wednesday June 15, 1994, Cris Moor
Eboy, 1992, Jason Evans
Martin Margiela SS94, Anders Edström

Thursday, January 30, 2014

blanketed

 Emporio Armani (1) and Max Mara (2&3) coats
Styling of Air Force 1s in image 1 is perfection!!! 
Vogue Paris, Sept 93, ph by Gilles Bensimon
Issey Miyake "transformation coat" FW76 
Art Forum, Feb 82, ph by Moriaki Yokosuka 

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

borrowed from the guys

1. 12-year-old boy wears jacket with 23 pockets and 27 slide fasteners designed by Abe Rosenberg. "Front pockets hold a feather, match covers, corkscrew, padlock, ticket, gas tip, porcelain mixture, turtle, fishing line, roller skate clamp, roll of wire, bulb, and washer." LIFE, Jan 22, 1940

2. Pile-lined tan cotton coat with angle-flapped and buttoned pockets by Cortefiel de Espana, Gentlemen's Quarterly, Oct 1963

3. "In-n'outers" with cushion cork platform and crepe or leather sole by Winthrop, LIFE, June 6, 1949  

4. En Mer du Nord editorial ph by Patrick Bertrand, L'Officiel Hommes, n°2 1977

5. Demi boot by Barletta, Gentlemen's Quarterly,  April 1966

Sunday, January 12, 2014

samantha & vanessa traina

 The Traina sisters both have a recognizable style that could be pegged as the semi-ubiquitous (maybe even semi-annoying at this point) term, 'minimalist.' But it's true! They choose garments and styles that tend to veer on the reductive, restrained and simplistic side. At times their aesthetic can be a bit austere and serious for my taste, but they undoubtedly possess a keen eye for the details in dressing. Ie: choosing smart proportions and cuts and gravitating towards the finest materials/fabrics.

The two looks above are pretty perfect in my book. Samantha's snowy white, double-breasted jacket, envelops her in the chicest way with its carved volume, curved hem and soft sloped shoulder. It has a certain 50s/60s quality but is simultaneously contemporary and modern. I *believe* it's by Balenciaga. 

Also loving Vanessa's mid-rise, straightleg jeans that off-set her slick paneled blouse (also by Balenciaga). That relaxed, easy denim silhouette has been on my mind for quite some time. I have a pair of thrifted J.Crew's from the early 2000s that I'm wearing to death lately. Vanessa's are probably old Levis or a vintage pair. Acne makes a style pretty similar (that seems to be selling extremely well) called the Pop Betty.
 [vanessa jackman, tfs]

Wednesday, January 8, 2014

donna karan new york 1995


While on the subject of Donna Karan... her namesake label churned out some pretty great styles back in the day as well. These ads remind me a lot of what The Row's sartorial ideology is about. 

 Donna Karan New York 1995 ads
1+2 by Steven Meisel
3+4 by Herb Ritts

Sunday, January 5, 2014

90s dkny

Opening Ceremony's capsule collection collab with DKNY focused mainly on sporty styles emblazoned with the brand's logo. And for good reason--the four letters are completely emblematic and representative of the brand, and its ultimate foray into 90s streetwear culture. OC reissued pieces from 1991-1994, with all looks featuring the oversized logo. 

In these ads you can see some of the original looks and inspiration that pretty much defined the era of activewear seeping into modern, everyday dress. 
Spring 1994 lensed by Peter Lindbergh (essentially the creator of every DKNY campaign), featuring Peter Fortier, Rosemary McGrotha and 90s superhunk Mark Vanderloo
Spring 1994 DKNY at SAKS ad

OC's take on DKNY's activewear and logomania are relevant and thematically important to its image in the 90s. Still, there is much more to the brand and its style sensibility during the decade. Several magazine ads of the era proclaimed: DKNY, "the bare facts of casual," or DKNY, "the basic components of style." Flipping through 90s lookbooks, you see just that. Many of the heavy hitters and stunners don't have a logo in sight. Instead, you see truly casual and covetable basics. These looks below, a sampling from Spring 1994, are a prime example.












Super pared down, yet kinda inspiring, amiright? Definite reference material almost 20 years later. Below are some notable ads of the decade, shot of course by Lindbergh.
1991
 1993: Getting theatrical w/Shalom Harlow...lol 
1994: Probably the most memorable DKNY ad of all time. Check out more from the series here. Shot in Times Square, the campaign is chock-full of classic NYC iconography: yellow cabs, traffic lights, and crowds on busy streets. If these ads were re-released today, they'd stand out from the majority of new campaigns, no contest. It's the story-telling art direction, authentic energy, and cinematic quality of the campaign that makes it so timeless. All the photographs were made into a beautifully designed catalog celebrating the city itself. It's wonderful, buy it!

From the beginning, the ultimate goal of DKNY's branding and advertising was to make consumers associate the brand with NYC, and the city with the brand. DKNY's Houston St. Soho billboard (which illustrated the statue of liberty and NYC cityscape within the letters of its logo) became a kind of landmark of the city for 16 years, and the former advertising tagline declaring DKNY as "The uniform of NYC" helped drive the association full force. 
The following year though, Donna Karan & co. launched the DKNY Hollywood campaign, diversifying the brand image beyond the confines of NYC with a more glamorous, sophisticated style. Seems like it was a big departure from the logo-heavy streetwear from earlier on and moreso, a slight nod to 30s and 40s leisurewear.
 Shalom Harlow and Mark Vanderloo getting cozy on set.
 I want to be Amber Valletta in this image. Y'know, casually hanging poolside in my palatial backyard, wearing a pristine crepe de chine jumpsuit and drinking fresh-squeezed OJ while reading the latest in Variety. Getting ready to start the day, maybe at 1PM.
Last but not least, here's Spring 1996. Lime green accents and pool slides abound.